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June 30 29-06-09 DelphiThis morning we woke early and took the 7am bus to the ancient town of Delphi about half an hour away, through acres and acres of olive groves. Delphi's first traces of inhabitation go back to 14th-11th century BC. From the end of the 9th century the cult of Apollo became established and Temples were built in his honour like here in Delphi. We admired the remains of it and took many pictures from all angles! We walked past the ancient theatre and many other monuments and ruins and finally came to the top of the site. Phew what a climb, lucky we were mountain goats in our previous lives! Seeing the very much in tact stadium was worth the effort! We could only see it from one angle as like everything else on this ancient site, it was cordoned off. From far we could see the runner's starting blocks and as the stadium is still so in tact we could really get a feel what it must have been like to be an athlete or spectator in the olden days. We slowly walked back down, enjoying the nature and the sound of the birds and crickets all around us. We followed the road and after a short walk we came to another part of ancient Delphi. Here we found the remains of a large gymnasium and a little further down the hill the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia, cosisting of 2 temples dating from the 4th and 5th century and the Tholos or dome which was built about 380BC. This circular structure comprises of 20 columns (of which 3 have been reconstructed) on a three tiered podium. We found some building blocks looking very much like Lego. We walked back through the little touristy 'new' town of Delphi, waiting for our bus to take us back to Sybaris. 28-06-09 IteaWe motored over to Itea leisurely. There was just a little breeze, not enough to sail. We arrived to Itea in time for lunch. After we walked around the sleepy and somewhat abandoned looking town. Some of the buildings were brand spanking new and modern whilst others were in dire need of attention. The old buildings had more of a western Mediterranean style than Greek. In the afternoon we invited Peter and Elaine on Lady of Rhodesia over for a drink and had a pleasant time together. 27-06-09 AndikironSince leaving Corinth we have stayed in two small towns. The first night we stayed in Paralia Saranda. We arrived there after a very windy crossing! We did not go on land preferring not to leave Sybaris on her own while it was still so windy. We rocked and rolled all night on the swells and so the next day we left early! 24-06-09 CorinthMid morning Sybaris motored away from Susaki but we took Mythos the dog, Annie and Patty along as crew. We motored up to the Corinth Canal and tied up Sybaris at the entrance to pay for the Canal fees. At 270 euros for one way it is not something we will do often! Even a return ticket for the Suez Canal is cheaper than this and that is 100nm long! The Corinth Canal is about 6 km long and just 23 meters wide and the edges 90 meters high at some points. Already in the 7th century BC plans were made to build the Canal but Nero was the first to actually started digging in 67AD. The projects was halted soon after it began and finally in 1893 French engineers completed it after working on it for 10 years. The sea state and weather were calm on the Aegean side but when we arrived at the Gulf of Corinth side the sea was very rough and strong winds were blowing! David was there to pick up Mythos the dog, Annie and Patty who jumped off as quick as they could as there was no way we could tie up Sybaris in that storm. We continued in the heavy seas to Corinth and anchored up in the port. NB the canal is closed on Tuesdays and costs double on Sundays! June 24 23-06-09 AthensAnnie, Patty and I took the train today to Athens. It was a lovely ride along the coast. Once there we took the Metro to the Acropolis. What a smooth ride. In less than an hour and a half since leaving Sybaris we were at one of the major ancient sites in the world! We walked past it and slowly walked up the hill, paid our entry fee and there we were: one of the top ancient sites in the world! From above we saw other ancients sites, remnants of gates and temples all around the Acropolis. Too bad we only had one day in Athens as there is so much to see. We enjoyed walking around the ancient site taking in as much as we could before we made our way down. We ate lunch in the quaint Plaka area and then made our way to the Museum only to be disappointed: tickets could only be purchased on the Internet and all had been sold for today. We returned back the way we came, by metro and train. Our men were happy to meet up with us again and listen to our adventures of the day over a delicious meal in one of the local Tavernas. June 21 19-06-09 SusakiToday Sweden celebrates Midsommar and since Per is a Swede we prepared for a party as well. In the morning Annie and I visited Ikea in Athens and filled our baskets with Swedish herring and bread. 18-06-09 SusakiWe slowly made our way to Susaki, close to the Corinth Canal. We stopped on the way to cool down and swim. The temperatures are rising and reached just over 40c in our cockpit. The water is lovely and refreshing at 27c. 17-06-09 EpidavrosIn the morning we went ashore and rented a 50cc motorbike and drove into the country side through acres and acres of olive groves. We eventually got to the very intact amphitheatre dating from the 3rd Century. It seats 14000 people and is enormous. It is still used today for music and drama. Next we walked around the site a little before returning back to town. We visited another amphitheatre, this tome a very small one. It is in the process of being renovated. The setting around it is beautiful, close to the sea. We lifted anchor and spent the night in Korfos, an unexciting town in a rather dirty bay. No swimming tonight! 16-06-09 EpidavrosWe arrived in Epidavros mid afternoon. We had heard there is a sunken village in the bay next to the port and so we lowered the dinghy soon after dropping anchor. It took as a while to find the spot as it is not marked on any charts or even mentioned in tourist guides. We eventually found it and snorkelled around. The water was not very clear but we saw plenty. We must have come across the former home of the local wine merchant as we found the remains of one house full with some left over shards from what looked like enormous amphora. 15-06-09 PorosYesterday was another good day to sail! We used the Genakker most of the way and flew across the Saronic Sea! Arriving at the island of Poros is always exciting, The island is so close to main land that there is a narrow channel to get to the main town by boat. There are ferries running across from main land to Poros and back which are a lot more modern than an old fashioned one we saw a picture of. Would you trust your car on these? Today we pulled up anchor only to drop it again a few miles along the coasts in one of our all time favourite bays between a ruin on the beach and a little island which has a small church on it. 13-06-09 Cape SounioThe wind has reached this area of Greece as well and we are happy we are safely tucked in this anchorage. Even though we are well protected we have been getting gusts of 30knots. We threw out our second anchor just to make us feel better and left Sybaris at anchor to have a long lazy lunch with David & Annie and their friends in a Taverna 10 minutes along the coast. 12-06-09 Cape SounioYesterday we had a great sail from Mykonos to the island of Syros, the capital of the Cyclades. We anchored in the bay in Fineka and invited the crew of a neighbouring Swedish sailboat. They have spent 3 years in the Ionian Sea and shared their favorite spots with us while we gave them tips of nice places in the Cyclades and Dodecanese. June 10 10-06-09 MykonosSybaris has a special guest since yesterday: Leonidas, the previous owner of Sybaris. We bought Sybaris from him 3 years ago and have been in contact ever since. Leonidas has been in the shoe business all his life and when we searched the Internet we even found an old advertisement with him for sale on Ebay! And to prove that 'once a shoemaker always a shoemaker', he immediately modified his flip-flops when they started to hurt him! 08-06-09 MykonosWe have spent the last 2 days strolling around Mykonos town, a short bus ride away from our anchorage in Ornos Beach on the island of Mykonos. Mykonos town is a favourite stop on the cruise ship route and is very touristy. Strolling around you can see why as it is very picturesque! Around every corner is a church and another alley and before you know it you have lost your bearings. Luckily all roads lead to a cafe and the old town is small so you can always find your way out again! Somewhere in the middle of town we found a enormous pelican grooming itself. June 08 06-06-09 DelosJust a few miles west of Mykonos lies the island of Delos, an ancient archaeological site. The island is no longer inhabited and can only be visited during opening hours. After closing hours no boats are allowed to anchor in the bay and so we left for the next little island called Rinia, another uninhabited island. When we entered the bay we realized we had forgotten about all the big super-yachts in the Cyclades, the playground of the rich and famous in Greece! We anchored Sybaris amongst them and tried to be inconspicuous! June 07 05-06-09 NaxosWe left early, before breakfast on a extremely calm and wind still day. We motored all the way to the island of Donousa and anchored of one of its (nude) beaches. Per had read there is a WWII wreck right off the beach and so we both got in the water (yes I did even though the water was 2 degrees less than my usual 25C minimum temperature!). I did not last long in the water so Per went to explore and found the wreck right next to Sybaris but there was not much to see as most was covered by sand. Later in the afternoon we took the Dinghy into the little village in the next bay. We walked around some before returning to Sybaris. Just at dinner time Per had the great idea to Move onto the next island, Naxos to anchor at its north tip to shorten our journey to Delos and Mykonos tomorrow. We anchored there after an very nice ride watching the sunset in all its stages. The colours the low sun created on the water were spectacular! 04-06-09 LevithaWe had a pleasant sail to Levitha, less than 20nm away. We sailed most of the way even though there was little wind. We arrived there in time for lunch and moored up onto a buoy in the little but very protected bay. There are no ferries to the island and therefore there is no tourism besides the sailboats that stop here. 03-06-09 PatmosVery early this morning Makkan left us to continue his slow trip around the world. Thanks for all your help Makkan, and come back any time you want! Our plan is to go west from here. We will leave the Dodecanese islands and sail to the Cyclades islands. Per has been looking in our Greek pilot book which gives great explanations on each island and port. Today the wind is in the wrong direction for us so we have decided to stay here another day. 02-06-09 PatmosWe spent another day in Lakki Bay. We were mainly lazy, only going ashore to get some groceries. We prepared a BBQ on board Sybaris and invited the crew of Miss Cat. What a fun evening! June 01 31-05-09 LerosYesterday we sailed from Kos to Telendos. We anchored up early evening and did not go on land thinking we would do a tour in the morning. Late afternoon we discovered the town, build by Mussolini when the island was under Italian reign before the second world war. The architecture is typical from that Italian Art Deco period and not at all like the typical Greek architecture we are used to seeing on the islands. |
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